Saturday, April 28, 2012

Meissen and Torgau

 Thursday 26 April

The boat left Dresden just before breakfast and arrived in Meissen, just before 8:30, where we boarded coaches to visit the Meissen Porcelain works.

With a history dating back more than a thousand years, Meissen has long been known as the "cradle" of Saxony.  This is clearly seen in its buildings - records of stone which record the different epochs of not only Saxon history but also the history of the Holy Roman Empire with Germany at its centre.

The buildings of Albrechtsburg Castle and Meissen Cathedral on the hill above the town dominate the skyline. Long ago, in the Middle Ages, the Wettin Princes became the margraves of Meissen, thus marking the beginning of Saxon history. Albrechtsburg Castle is regarded as being the first castle to be used a royal residence in the German speaking world; built between 1472 and 1525.

However Meissen is probably more famous for being the home of the discovery of the process of making porcelain in Europe, prior to this it was imported from China and Japan.  To protect the secret, the ruler of the day set up the first manufacturing works in the Castle but later built a new works in the valley to provide better access to water and wood.

Our visit to the present day works took us through rooms were we were shown a man using a potter’s wheel, a women preparing miniature body parts, hand etc. in the process of assembling a small statue of a woman with a flowing gown.  We were then shown techniques of “below glaze” and “above glaze” painting before visiting the museum with examples of Meissen works over hundreds of years.  A highlight was an operating organ with pipes made from porcelain.

Leaving the works we strolled through town lanes past many old building before arriving at the castle and cathedral and walking down to the town square which is dominated by the Town Hall and the Frauenkirche, this church was the first to have a Carillion made from porcelain installed in its tower.  Returning to the boat we sailed for Torgou as we had lunch.

Torgau is well known as the place where during WW II the USA forces coming from the west and the Russian forces from the east met on 25 April 1945.  The first time the town was mentioned by a document, was in 973and by 1267 it developed into a considerable town.

In 1544 Luther established the castle chapel as the first protestant new building of a church and around 1811Torgau had been extended to a giant star-shaped fortress by Napoleon.

Other features of the town include a castle at the bank of the river Elbe, living brown bears down in the castle moat, the oldest toy shop of Germany, precious china of the brand Villeroy & Boch, knights in armour and about 500 historical monuments from the Renaissance, late Gothic and Baroque period.  As well as Luther, Napoleon, Friedrich II of Prussia and Czar Peter I. all spent time in Torgau.

We docked around 5:00 and left shortly after for a walking tour, first going to the memorial commemorating the link up af the American and Russian forces.  Yesterday was the 67th anniversary of this event and the forecourt was filled with dozens of commemorative wreaths from many nations.

Walking up the hill to Hartenfels Castle we entered by the Round Tower Gate which overlooks the river.  Inside the courtyard was the entrance to the first Chapel consecrated by Martin Luther and where he performed his first baptism.

From the castle we walked around the lanes past the house where Katharina Luther died and on to the town square with its large fountain from there were strolled back to the boat.  After dinner we were given a talk by a local resident about her experiences living under communist rule.

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