Saturday, May 5, 2012

Leipzig


Friday 4th May




At Leipzig the first settlement was recorded in the 7th - 9th C. - a Slavic settlement near the confluence of the rivers Elster and Parthe.  Other notable dates include:




The first mention of ''urbs Libzi'' in the Chronicle's of Bishop Thietmar von Merseburg in 1015.



Around 1165 Margrave Otto the Rich grants Leipzig its city charter and market rights.
 1212 Foundation of Augustinian Canons St Thomas, also the Boys’ Choir, celebrating its 800th Anniversary this year.

1409 Foundation of the University of Leipzig.

1481 Marcus Brandis, a wandering printer from Delitzsch, prints the first book in Leipzig.

1497 Emperor Maximilan I grants the town imperial trade fair rights. In 1507 he confirms the rights and grants the ''Stapelrecht'', handling rights forcing passing traders to offer their goods for sale in
the town.

In 1813 a major battle between Napoleonic forces and combined forces of Russia, Prussia, Austria
and Sweden near Leipzig ended Napoleon’s presence in Germany and to his eventual demise.

During World War II, Leipzig was repeatedly attacked by British as well as American air raids. The most severe attack was launched by the RAF in the early hours of December 4, 1943 and claimed more than 1,800 lives. Large parts of the city centre were destroyed, while factories experienced temporary shortfalls in production or had to be relocated.

We left our hotel this morning to walk to the Market Square beside the old Rathaus and were surprised to find it was serving that purpose with a farmer’s market in full swing, around the market place are many old buildings which survived the Allied bombing, there are others built in the time of the GDR and later which the locals described as S*** Houses, many of these types of building are being replaced.

From the square we walked through the Madler Passage, described as among the world’s most beautiful shopping arcades, maybe they should visit some of Melbourne’s arcades.  In the passage are two statues of characters from Goethe’s “Faust”.

Around the back of the Old Town Hall is a statue of Goethe, standing in front of the old Stock Exchange.  We retraced our steps to the Market Square and on to St Thomas’ Church where over 260 years ago J S Bach was appointed the organist and choir master and the Boys’ Choir was founded in 1212.  Bach was reburied in the Church Chancel when his original burial place was destroyed in WWII.

From the church we walked to the New Rathaus, a building of over 600 rooms and completed in 1909.  Walking on we passed the Art Centre, Concert Hall and Opera House, stopping to view the clock on the Kroch-Haus, Leipzig’s first “skyscraper of 11 stories.  On the top of the building are two bronze figures who strike a bell to announce the time, the Latin inscription on the building reads “Work Conquers All”.

Around the corner from the Kroch-Haus stands the famous St Nicholas Church which was founded in about 1165.  The church started as a Romanesque style, then in the 16th C it was extended and formed a Gothic church, in the 1700s the three spires received Baroque decoration and in 1902 sandstone extensions again altered its appearance.  The interior of the church is very impressive with the tops of the columns decorated to resemble palm trees.


After the war Leipzig was in the GDR and in 1983 in St Nicholas Church the Pastor commenced Monday Prayers for Peace.  On the 7th October 1989 the police and others battered hundreds of people and took them away in trucks.  On the 9th 1000 SED party members were ordered to the church and instructed to disrupt the prayers, 600 of them entered the Church and at the conclusion of the prayers the Bishop and others called for non-violence.  2000 people filed out of the Church, including the 600 “Government plants” who joined the protestors and were met by 10,000 people waiting with candles in their hands to support them.  (Some reports say 70,000 assembled in the streets)
 
Troops and the police were called in and engaged in conversations with the crowd and withdrew. This non-violent movement only lasted a few weeks and resulted in the Berlin Wall being opened and shortly afterwards the collapse of the GDR.

At 6:00 we returned to St Thomas Church for Motette in der Thomaskirche, a service featuring the Boys Choir, 100 boys aged 8 to 18, singing unaccompanied and several organ pieces and with the 2000+ congregation joining in the hymns and prayers, a most moving experience.

Motette: a polyphonic piece of music for choir.

 
Saturday 5th May

We walked to the Zoo to see if it was any different to the Berlin Zoo and looking at the map we couldn’t see that they had any additional exhibits so decided to pass.

Walking on we arrived at a large fire station and it appeared that they had an open day as all their appliances were on display, together with rides for children.  One of the displays was a demonstration how to treat different fires and what not to do, i.e. don’t put water on a fat or oil fire.  Rather embarrassing for the firemen, they couldn’t light the fire to demonstrate the techniques.

From the fire station we followed the ring road arriving at a large early 1900s building, originally a fire insurance company office known as Runde Ecke (Round Corner).  In July 1945 the American Forces used the building as their HQ and after the partition of Germany it was used by the Soviet Secret Service until becoming the Leipzig HQ for the Stasi.

On the 4th December 1989, the citizens of Leipzig learning that the Stasi were destroying their records, occupied the building and took control of it, shortly afterwards a Citizens Committee was formed to maintain control and also take over some of the powers of the GDR.

Today the committee still maintains the building and it is open as a museum containing many displays regarding the Stasi’s methods of surveillance and control of its citizens, and files were kept on every citizen.  No-one was allowed to openly express their opinion, one woman, who was investigated, had written on a butcher’s advertisement for steak, in a western newspaper, “when can we get that?”

Nearly every phone in Leipzig was tapped, the mail from West Germany and other International sources was opened and often copied, money was also confiscated, the State stole an estimated 38 million Marks sent as presents.  The Stasi had hundreds a false franking stamps and postage stamps, so they could send a letter to a citizen, purporting to have been sent from overseas.

They ran classes to teach operatives how to create disguises and supplied them with wigs, false beards, clothes and other items to allow them to mount surveillance on the citizens and taught them how to enter apartments and use Polaroid cameras to photograph the appearance of the rooms.  This allowed them to search thoroughly and photograph items and then restore the room before leaving.

Some people took advantage of the system, it was reported that a child wrote to their grandmother in the West thanking her for the pistol and saying he had buried it in the garden.  Weeks later he wrote again saying, you can now send the tulips, the Stasi have dug up the garden for me!

In 1986 we travelled from Denmark through East Germany to West Berlin and at the time commented how long passport control took, we now know why.   Border guards and passport officers were members of the Stasi and every foreigner had their passport copied and were photographed secretly, this information allowed the Stasi to produce false passports.  Scary to think some spy could have been travelling on my copied passport.

Before visiting the museum we had some idea of how suppressive the GDR were but this museum showed that we didn’t know how bad it was.

Later in the afternoon we went back to St Nicholas Church for an organ concert and found that it was part of Disabled Awareness programme.  The front eight rows were occupied by young people and adults with various problems and the nave was full of people in wheel chairs.

The concert started with less abled children assisted by adults using percussion instruments to accompany three songs followed by two organ numbers.  Next a group similar to Bailey House residents performed three songs and then another piece on the organ.  It was interesting to see two rows of deaf people holding balloons in their hands so they could feel the music and all announcements and commentary were copied by a person signing.

The highlight of the evening was a person accompanying the music Gebardenpoesie mit Orgelimprovisation by miming and signing the preparation and planting seeds and the resultant growth of trees which were variously destroyed by violent storms and icy conditions until one finally grew into a mature tree inhabited by birds and animals, then a forester arrived with a chain saw to cut it down but the many birds and animals came to its rescue and the forester left it standing.  A most moving and entertaining performance.

The evening concluded with J S Bach’s Toccata and Fuge in D Minor, the mighty organ and acoustics in the Church provided a most stirring performance.    


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